Search Results: heaters

How to calculate your heating area before buying a heater Before you pick a wood stove, fireplace, or furnace, you need to know how much space you want to heat. Once you have that number, it gets much easier to filter products and choose a model that fits your home instead of guessing. Step 1: Calculate your theoretical heating area The “theoretical” heating area is your starting point. It is based on the size of your floors and where the appliance will be installed. If you only want to heat one floor Your heating area is simply the area of that floor. Example:A single storey house that is 30 ft by 30 ft. 30 ft x 30 ft = 900 sq ft So your theoretical heating area is 900 sq ft. If you want to heat two floors Start with: 100% of the floor where the unit is installed plus 50% of the floor above Example:You install the unit in the basement of a house with 900 sq ft per floor. Basement: 100% of 900 sq ft = 900 sq ft Main floor: 50% of 900 sq ft = 450 sq ft Total theoretical heating area:900 + 450 = 1,350 sq ft So you should look for a unit that can heat at least 1,350 sq ft. If you want to heat more than two floors Use the same logic, but you add one more level: 100% of the floor where the appliance is installed plus 50% of the middle floor plus 25% of the upper floor Example:You install the unit in the basement of a three storey house with 900 sq ft per floor. Basement: 100% of 900 sq ft = 900 sq ft Main floor: 50% of 900 sq ft = 450 sq ft Second floor: 25% of 900 sq ft = 225 sq ft Total theoretical heating area:900 + 450 + 225 = 1,575 sq ft At this stage, you know the basic area your heater needs to cover. The next step is to adjust this number for real life. Step 2: Adjust to get your real heating area Now you take the theoretical number and add a “comfort margin” to get your real heating area. This accounts for how your home actually behaves in winter. Here is what you need to consider. Insulation levelThe better your home is insulated, the more heat it will keep inside. Things that affect insulation include: How many doors and windows you have The type and quality of those doors and windows Their orientation (for example, large north facing windows may lose more heat) The thermal resistance of your walls and roof Air circulationHeat travels more easily in open spaces. It is harder to heat: Homes with many small closed rooms.Spaces with poor air movement High or cathedral ceilings, where heat rises and stays up high Type of useHow you plan to use the appliance changes what you need. If you run it almost all the time as a strong extra heating source, it has to be powerful enough to handle that load without being pushed to the limit every day. If you mostly use it for ambiance, with occasional fires, you do not want a unit that is too powerful, or you will be tempted to make very small fires. Small fires burn less cleanly and can create more creosote. Location and climateThe further north or the more exposed your home is to wind and harsh weather, the more performance you will need from your stove or furnace to reach the same level of comfort. How much should you add to your theoretical area? To balance all these factors, a simple rule is: Add about 15% in an ideal environment Add up to about 35% in a tougher environment Here are two examples using a theoretical heating area of 1,400 sq ft. Very favorable conditions Ambiance use Good insulation Good air circulation In this case, it makes sense to choose a unit that slightly exceeds the theoretical area. You would aim for a real heating area of around 1,600 sq ft. Less favorable conditions Sustained use Poorer insulation Poorer air circulation Here, you want a larger comfort margin. You would aim for a real heating area around 1,800 sq ft, or even up to 2,000 sq ft. Turn your calculation into the right heater Once you have your real heating area, you can: Use that number as a filter when you look at our wood stoves, fireplaces, or furnaces Compare the “heating area” listed on each product page with your calculation Focus only on the models that are actually sized for your home This way, instead of guessing, you choose a heater that matches your space, your climate, and how you plan to use it. That means better comfort, better performance, and a purchase you will be happy with for years.

An old brick or stone fireplace looks great… but most of the heat goes straight up the chimney. A wood insert lets you keep the charm of your masonry fireplace while turning it into a real heating appliance that actually warms your home. By upgrading to a wood insert, you get more comfort, more heat, and less dependence on other heating sources like electricity or gas. What is a wood insert and why choose one? A wood insert is a wood-burning appliance that slides directly into the opening of your existing masonry fireplace. Think of it as a modern wood stove built to fit inside your old hearth. Unlike an open fireplace that loses most of its heat through the chimney, a wood insert: Burns wood in a closed firebox Uses an integrated fan to push warm air back into the room Holds onto much more of the heat you create If you have a large living room or an open-concept area that your current fireplace barely warms, a wood insert is a simple way to turn that spot into a powerful heat source. On The North Flame, you can browse wood inserts that are built for real performance, not just looks. Key benefits of replacing your old masonry fireplace Upgrading to a wood insert gives you both comfort and savings. Here is what you gain when you make the switch. 1. Much better energy efficiency Traditional masonry fireplaces are beautiful, but they are not efficient. Most of the heat disappears up the chimney. A wood insert is designed to keep that heat inside your home. The closed firebox and blower push warmth into the room, so you: Get more heat from every load of wood Reduce wasted energy Enjoy a more even, comfortable temperature When you look at our wood inserts, check the efficiency ratings and heating area on each product page to match them with your space. 2. Lower heating bills Because a wood insert gives off more usable heat, you can rely less on electric or gas heating. Over time, that can mean: Lower energy bills A more stable and predictable heating cost Less stress during peak rate periods or cold snaps If you want your fireplace to actually help you save money instead of just looking nice, a high efficiency wood insert is a smart move. 3. Simple, clean installation You do not need a major renovation to upgrade. Wood inserts are built to fit into existing masonry fireplaces with the right venting setup. That means: No tearing down your hearth A cleaner, faster installation A modern heating appliance that still respects the original look of your fireplace When you choose a model from our store, you get a unit designed to slide into your existing opening with a clean, finished look. 4. Safe, reliable heat A quality wood insert gives you a dependable source of heat, even if the power goes out. That is a big advantage in the middle of winter. You benefit from: A sealed door that reduces the risk of sparks and embers A controlled burn that is easier to manage than an open fire Consistent heat output to keep your family comfortable For many homeowners, that extra layer of security alone justifies the upgrade. 5. Better for the environment Modern, high efficiency wood inserts are designed to burn cleaner than old open fireplaces. With the right model, you: Use less wood for the same heat Reduce smoke and fine particle emissions Lower your overall environmental impact All of our wood inserts are EPA or CSA certified, which helps you choose an appliance that respects current environmental standards. What is secondary combustion and why does it matter? Most older fireplaces and basic appliances burn wood in a single stage. The problem is that a lot of the gases and fine particles in the smoke never get burned. They leave as wasted fuel and extra pollution. Certified wood inserts and modern stoves use secondary combustion to fix that. Here is how it works. Preheated air is introduced through secondary air tubes inside the firebox. This extra hot air mixes with the unburned gases and particles from the first combustion. Those gases ignite a second time, creating extra flames at the top of the firebox. This has several big advantages for you: More heat from the same amount of wood Less smoke and fewer fine particles released into the air Longer, more stable burn times between reloads In short, secondary combustion means you get a hotter, cleaner fire while using less fuel. When you look at wood insert product pages, watch for mentions of secondary combustion or clean burn technology to make sure you get these benefits. Comfort, efficiency, and a modernized fireplace Switching from an open masonry fireplace to a wood insert is one of the easiest upgrades you can make if you want: Real, usable heat instead of a decorative fire Lower heating costs and less reliance on electricity A cleaner, safer, and more efficient appliance A modern heater that keeps the traditional look of your hearth If you are ready to turn your old fireplace into a serious heat source, a wood insert is the way to go. Next step: explore high efficiency, Canadian-made wood inserts on The North Flame, compare heating capacity and features, and choose the model that best fits your home and your lifestyle. That is how you turn a rarely used fireplace into one of the most valuable heating tools in your house.