Why Floor Protection Essentials For Your Stove or Fireplace

How to calculate your heating area before buying a heater Before you pick a wood stove, fireplace, or furnace, you need to know how much space you want to heat. Once you have that number, it gets much easier to filter products and choose a model that fits your home instead of guessing. Step 1: Calculate your theoretical heating area The “theoretical” heating area is your starting point. It is based on the size of your floors and where the appliance will be installed. If you only want to heat one floor Your heating area is simply the area of that floor. Example:A single storey house that is 30 ft by 30 ft. 30 ft x 30 ft = 900 sq ft So your theoretical heating area is 900 sq ft. If you want to heat two floors Start with: 100% of the floor where the unit is installed plus 50% of the floor above Example:You install the unit in the basement of a house with 900 sq ft per floor. Basement: 100% of 900 sq ft = 900 sq ft Main floor: 50% of 900 sq ft = 450 sq ft Total theoretical heating area:900 + 450 = 1,350 sq ft So you should look for a unit that can heat at least 1,350 sq ft. If you want to heat more than two floors Use the same logic, but you add one more level: 100% of the floor where the appliance is installed plus 50% of the middle floor plus 25% of the upper floor Example:You install the unit in the basement of a three storey house with 900 sq ft per floor. Basement: 100% of 900 sq ft = 900 sq ft Main floor: 50% of 900 sq ft = 450 sq ft Second floor: 25% of 900 sq ft = 225 sq ft Total theoretical heating area:900 + 450 + 225 = 1,575 sq ft At this stage, you know the basic area your heater needs to cover. The next step is to adjust this number for real life. Step 2: Adjust to get your real heating area Now you take the theoretical number and add a “comfort margin” to get your real heating area. This accounts for how your home actually behaves in winter. Here is what you need to consider. Insulation levelThe better your home is insulated, the more heat it will keep inside. Things that affect insulation include: How many doors and windows you have The type and quality of those doors and windows Their orientation (for example, large north facing windows may lose more heat) The thermal resistance of your walls and roof Air circulationHeat travels more easily in open spaces. It is harder to heat: Homes with many small closed rooms.Spaces with poor air movement High or cathedral ceilings, where heat rises and stays up high Type of useHow you plan to use the appliance changes what you need. If you run it almost all the time as a strong extra heating source, it has to be powerful enough to handle that load without being pushed to the limit every day. If you mostly use it for ambiance, with occasional fires, you do not want a unit that is too powerful, or you will be tempted to make very small fires. Small fires burn less cleanly and can create more creosote. Location and climateThe further north or the more exposed your home is to wind and harsh weather, the more performance you will need from your stove or furnace to reach the same level of comfort. How much should you add to your theoretical area? To balance all these factors, a simple rule is: Add about 15% in an ideal environment Add up to about 35% in a tougher environment Here are two examples using a theoretical heating area of 1,400 sq ft. Very favorable conditions Ambiance use Good insulation Good air circulation In this case, it makes sense to choose a unit that slightly exceeds the theoretical area. You would aim for a real heating area of around 1,600 sq ft. Less favorable conditions Sustained use Poorer insulation Poorer air circulation Here, you want a larger comfort margin. You would aim for a real heating area around 1,800 sq ft, or even up to 2,000 sq ft. Turn your calculation into the right heater Once you have your real heating area, you can: Use that number as a filter when you look at our wood stoves, fireplaces, or furnaces Compare the “heating area” listed on each product page with your calculation Focus only on the models that are actually sized for your home This way, instead of guessing, you choose a heater that matches your space, your climate, and how you plan to use it. That means better comfort, better performance, and a purchase you will be happy with for years.

An old brick or stone fireplace looks great… but most of the heat goes straight up the chimney. A wood insert lets you keep the charm of your masonry fireplace while turning it into a real heating appliance that actually warms your home. By upgrading to a wood insert, you get more comfort, more heat, and less dependence on other heating sources like electricity or gas. What is a wood insert and why choose one? A wood insert is a wood-burning appliance that slides directly into the opening of your existing masonry fireplace. Think of it as a modern wood stove built to fit inside your old hearth. Unlike an open fireplace that loses most of its heat through the chimney, a wood insert: Burns wood in a closed firebox Uses an integrated fan to push warm air back into the room Holds onto much more of the heat you create If you have a large living room or an open-concept area that your current fireplace barely warms, a wood insert is a simple way to turn that spot into a powerful heat source. On The North Flame, you can browse wood inserts that are built for real performance, not just looks. Key benefits of replacing your old masonry fireplace Upgrading to a wood insert gives you both comfort and savings. Here is what you gain when you make the switch. 1. Much better energy efficiency Traditional masonry fireplaces are beautiful, but they are not efficient. Most of the heat disappears up the chimney. A wood insert is designed to keep that heat inside your home. The closed firebox and blower push warmth into the room, so you: Get more heat from every load of wood Reduce wasted energy Enjoy a more even, comfortable temperature When you look at our wood inserts, check the efficiency ratings and heating area on each product page to match them with your space. 2. Lower heating bills Because a wood insert gives off more usable heat, you can rely less on electric or gas heating. Over time, that can mean: Lower energy bills A more stable and predictable heating cost Less stress during peak rate periods or cold snaps If you want your fireplace to actually help you save money instead of just looking nice, a high efficiency wood insert is a smart move. 3. Simple, clean installation You do not need a major renovation to upgrade. Wood inserts are built to fit into existing masonry fireplaces with the right venting setup. That means: No tearing down your hearth A cleaner, faster installation A modern heating appliance that still respects the original look of your fireplace When you choose a model from our store, you get a unit designed to slide into your existing opening with a clean, finished look. 4. Safe, reliable heat A quality wood insert gives you a dependable source of heat, even if the power goes out. That is a big advantage in the middle of winter. You benefit from: A sealed door that reduces the risk of sparks and embers A controlled burn that is easier to manage than an open fire Consistent heat output to keep your family comfortable For many homeowners, that extra layer of security alone justifies the upgrade. 5. Better for the environment Modern, high efficiency wood inserts are designed to burn cleaner than old open fireplaces. With the right model, you: Use less wood for the same heat Reduce smoke and fine particle emissions Lower your overall environmental impact All of our wood inserts are EPA or CSA certified, which helps you choose an appliance that respects current environmental standards. What is secondary combustion and why does it matter? Most older fireplaces and basic appliances burn wood in a single stage. The problem is that a lot of the gases and fine particles in the smoke never get burned. They leave as wasted fuel and extra pollution. Certified wood inserts and modern stoves use secondary combustion to fix that. Here is how it works. Preheated air is introduced through secondary air tubes inside the firebox. This extra hot air mixes with the unburned gases and particles from the first combustion. Those gases ignite a second time, creating extra flames at the top of the firebox. This has several big advantages for you: More heat from the same amount of wood Less smoke and fewer fine particles released into the air Longer, more stable burn times between reloads In short, secondary combustion means you get a hotter, cleaner fire while using less fuel. When you look at wood insert product pages, watch for mentions of secondary combustion or clean burn technology to make sure you get these benefits. Comfort, efficiency, and a modernized fireplace Switching from an open masonry fireplace to a wood insert is one of the easiest upgrades you can make if you want: Real, usable heat instead of a decorative fire Lower heating costs and less reliance on electricity A cleaner, safer, and more efficient appliance A modern heater that keeps the traditional look of your hearth If you are ready to turn your old fireplace into a serious heat source, a wood insert is the way to go. Next step: explore high efficiency, Canadian-made wood inserts on The North Flame, compare heating capacity and features, and choose the model that best fits your home and your lifestyle. That is how you turn a rarely used fireplace into one of the most valuable heating tools in your house.

How to Choose the Right Wood Stove for Your Home Picking a wood stove is not just about looks. To get the right model, you need to think about where it will be installed, how your home is laid out, and how you plan to use it. Then, you can calculate your heating area and match it with a stove that actually fits your needs. Once you know your numbers, you can browse stoves that match your heating area and lifestyle and choose the unit that will work best in your home. 1. Where will the wood stove be installed? Location matters a lot. If you install a stove in the basement, the heat will rise and help warm the first floor. If you install it on the first floor, it generally will not heat the basement. High or cathedral ceilings let a lot of heat move upward, so some of that warmth is lost higher up instead of staying at your level. Knowing where you plan to place the stove will help you judge how far the heat can realistically spread. 2. Does heat move easily through your space? The layout of your home changes how well a wood stove can do its job. Open floor plans and nearby rooms are easier to heat. A home with many small, closed-off rooms is harder to warm evenly because hot air does not circulate as well. A wood stove should be seen as a secondary heat source. It adds comfort, reduces the load on your main system, and gives you that cozy fire feel. If you want more even heat throughout the house: A blower can help push warm air into nearby areas. For full-house, balanced heating, a wood furnace is often more efficient than a stove alone. When you shop our stoves, think about whether you want targeted comfort around the unit, or something that works with your overall heating strategy. 3. How good is your insulation? The better your home is insulated, the more heat it can hold. Factors that affect this include: Number and size of windows and doors Type and quality of windows and doors Orientation (for example, large north-facing windows may lose more heat) Thermal resistance (R value) of your walls and roof Two stoves with the same heating capacity will not perform the same way in a drafty house versus a well-insulated one. If your home is older or less insulated, you may need a stove with a bit more power than the basic calculation suggests. 4. How do you plan to use the wood stove? Your usage makes a big difference: Sustained use: You use the wood stove as a strong additional heat source and run it regularly to get as much heat as possible. Ambiance use: You mainly want comfort and atmosphere around the appliance, with gentle extra heat rather than maximum output. Being honest about how often and how intensely you plan to use the stove will help you choose the right size and model. On each product page, look at both the heating capacity and the type of use it is best suited for. 5. Calculating the theoretical heating area The theoretical heating area is your starting point. It is a basic estimate of the space your stove could heat, based on the floor it is on and the floors above. Here is a simple rule: Theoretical area to heat =100% of the floor where the stove is installed 50% of the floor above 25% of the next floor (if there is one) Example: You install a wood stove in the basement of a 2 storey house with 800 ft² per floor. Floor 1 (basement, where the stove is): 100% of 800 ft² = 800 ft² Floor 2 (main floor): 50% of 800 ft² = 400 ft² There is no third floor in this example, so 25% of floor 3 = 0 Total theoretical heating area: 800 + 400 + 200 = 1,400 ft² (If there was a third floor, you would add 25% of that floor as well.) Once you have this theoretical area, you can start looking at stoves that list a similar heating capacity in their specifications. 6. Adjusting to get the real heating area Theoretical area is a baseline. To get closer to real life, you adjust that number with a comfort margin based on your conditions and how you will use the stove. Other factors that affect performance: Humidity Wood quality Chimney design and draft Outdoor temperature and wind Here are two examples, using a theoretical heating area of 1,400 ft²: 1. Very favorable conditions Ambiance use Good insulation Good air circulation In this case, it is recommended to choose a stove that slightly exceeds the theoretical area and aim for a real heating area around 1,600 ft². 2. Less favorable conditions Sustained use Poorer insulation Limited air circulation Here, it is better to add a larger comfort margin and aim for a stove rated around 1,800 ft² to 2,000 ft². When you visit our wood stove collection, you can compare the heating capacity listed on each product page with your real heating area to quickly narrow down the best models. 7. Finding the right power: not too big, not too small Choosing a slightly more powerful unit has clear advantages: Higher overall heating capacity Ability to load larger or longer logs Longer burn times between reloads But you also need to avoid going too far in either direction. If the stove is too big:Many people compensate by making small, cool fires. That leads to poor combustion, more creosote in the chimney, and lower efficiency. If the stove is too small:You may end up running it at maximum output all the time. This can cause faster wear on the appliance and still may not fully meet your heating needs. The goal is to match the stove’s rated heating area with your real heating area and how you plan to use it. Turn your numbers into the right stove Once you know: Where your stove will be installed How open or divided your space is How well your home is insulated Whether you want ambiance or sustained heat Your theoretical and real heating area you are ready to choose a model with confidence. From there, you can head our Wood Stove collection, filter stoves by heating capacity, and compare a few models that match your real heating area. That way, you are not just buying a beautiful wood stove, you are choosing one that will actually keep your space warm and comfortable for years.